How to Grow Borage: Planting and Care

Common Name Borage, starflower, tailwort
Botanical Name Borago officinalis
Family Boraginaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1-3 ft. tall, 9-18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Bloom Color Blue
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Mediterranean
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets

How to Plant Borage

When to Plant

Plant borage in the garden in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. Or start seeds indoors three to four weeks before your area’s projected last frost. Transplant seedlings into the garden once the soil has warmed, making sure to harden them off first (gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions).

Selecting a Planting Site

Borage can tolerate a variety of soil conditions if there is good drainage. Make sure to select a location that gets at least four hours of direct sunlight on most days, watching out for taller plants nearby that might shade the borage as they grow in the spring. Borage also can be grown in containers.

Spacing, Depth, and Support

Borage is most commonly planted from seeds, as nursery plants aren’t typically available. Plant seeds 14 to 12 inch deep. Thin seedlings when they are six to eight inches tall spaced from 18 to 24 inches apart. A support structure won’t be necessary.

Borage Care


Borage will grow in full sun to partial shade. However, growing borage plants in full sun will give you the best chance of lots of blooms and stocky stems.


Borage can thrive even in dry, nutrient-poor soils. However, it prefers a moderately moist, well-drained soil. It also can tolerate a fairly wide soil pH range (4.5–8.5), though it likes a slightly acidic soil. Amending your soil with organic matter, such as compost, will help to give your plants a nutritional boost.


As your borage is growing from seed and getting established in your garden, water it at least every few days to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Once the plant is mature, you can allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Temperature and Humidity

Borage is a particularly hardy herb able to withstand temperatures on both ends of the spectrum. However, while it is tolerant of both heat and cool weather, it won’t be able to withstand a hard frost. It has no special humidity needs.


Borage plants growing in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants, following label instructions. Fertilizer that’s high in phosphorous will aid in flower production.


Borage self-pollinates and tends to attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.

Types of Borage

Most gardeners plant the pure species plant, Borago officinalis. However, there are two common cultivars, as well as a closely related species:

  • Borago officinalis ‘Variegata’ has white mottling on the green leaves. Its flowers are less intense than common borage.
  • Borago officinalis ‘Alba’, also called white borage, blooms later in the season than the blue varieties with lovely white flowers. ‘Alba’ is a sturdier plant than common borage.
  • Creeping borage (Borago pygmaea) is a sprawling species with pale blue flowers that bloom from late spring to late fall. It is a short-lived perennial species.

Borage vs. Comfrey

Borage and comfrey are both flowering plants from the Boraginaceae family. They look similar to one another when they’re not in bloom. However, their flowers can be used as a distinguishing feature. Borage flowers are typically blue while comfrey flowers are pink, purple, and white. In addition, comfrey generally grows in clumps while borage can be more sprawling.

Harvesting Borage

Borage will reach maturity in about eight weeks after planting, at which point you can harvest the leaves and flowers as needed. The plants will start to decline if they are not deadheaded and are left to go to seed. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer bloom period, along with a longer harvest time.

Simply pick off the leaves and flowers you need by hand or use garden scissors. They are best eaten fresh after harvesting, though you also can keep them in the refrigerator for a few days. Borage can add a bit of cucumber flavor and color to salads, soups, dips, beverages, and ice cubes. Chop the leaves finely for use in cooking. The young stalks are also edible; prepare them as you would celery or similar vegetables.

This is not a plant that should be a major part of your diet, nor should you eat it in large quantities. It contains small amounts of pyrrolizidine alkaloids, and frequently eating large quantities can lead to stomach upset or even more serious health issues. Instead, borage is best used occasionally in small quantities to add flavoring.

How to Grow Borage in Pots

Growing borage in a pot is a great option if you don’t have enough space in your garden beds. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches deep with ample drainage holes. An unglazed terra cotta pot is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Note that container-grown plants will typically need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground, though you shouldn’t allow the soil to become soggy.


Regularly deadheading the plants, the process of removing spent blooms, will encourage the plants to keep blooming for several weeks. Also, if you prune back borage by one-half in midsummer, it will grow tender new leaves for a late summer harvest.

Propagating Borage

Borage is typically propagated via seeds, but it also can be grown from volunteer plants that sprout up after a mature plant has self-seeded. This is a quick and inexpensive way to cultivate new plants. Here’s how:

  1. Gently dig up a volunteer seedling when it’s at least six inches tall, keeping its roots as intact as possible. Wetting the soil around it first can help to slide out the roots.
  2. Choose a suitable growing site, and replant the seedling at the same depth it was previously growing.
  3. Water to moisten the soil.

How to Grow Borage From Seed

Borage plants produce numerous black seeds that can be collected to plant the following spring. Simply shake the seeds from the flowers as the blooms degrade and store them in an airtight container. Then, once the weather has warmed in the spring, shake the seeds over the soil in your preferred growing site, and cover them with 14 to 12 inch of soil. Water to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy.

Potting and Repotting Borage

A well-draining, all-purpose potting mix will do for container-grown borage. The plant doesn’t take well to transplanting, so plant them in a large container to make repotting unnecessary.


Borage is an annual that completes its life cycle in one season, so overwintering isn’t a concern. It self-seeds very freely, so if you don’t want lots of volunteer plants, it’s best to pull the plants from the ground at the end of the season. Borage also rots easily, so it makes a great addition to compost heaps.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

There are few pest or disease problems with borage. Powdery mildew can occur, especially in subpar growing conditions. To prevent the disease, make sure the plant has sufficient air circulation and that they are properly watered.


    • Borage is an easy-to-care-for plant in many different conditions, and it typically doesn’t have issues with pests or diseases.

    • Borage will mature about eight weeks after planting.

    • Borage is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season. It does, however, self-seed very readily, so it may appear to be perennial.

    • Borage is a somewhat rough, weedy-looking plant, but the true blue flowers are attractive enough to make the plant valuable for gardens with an informal, somewhat wild style.

    • The toxins in borage are present in rather small concentrations, and digestive upset is likely only if you eat it daily and in large quantities. Fresh young leaves are often used in salads or as cooked greens, or as a garnish in drinks. The taste resembles that of cucumber.

    • No. While this annual plant will readily self-seed in the garden, the tiny volunteers are not so plentiful that they pose a challenge to pluck out.

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